It’s been more than a month so I wanted to let you’ll know that I made it up to Xinjiang and have been working my way around the southern road that runs on a narrow strip of green between the Xinjiang desert and Tibetan mountains. I’ll be traveling through northern Xinjiang in a week or so and In less than a month my mom will come to visit.
Like any country China has its own hand signals that have evolved uniquely from the rest of the world. For example when counting on your fingers 1 to 5 are the same as in the US but 6 to 10 include some oddities like the “gnarly dude” thumb and little finger, and “stay away from me devil” crossing of the index fingers. But as I travel in Xinjiang the most common hand signal I find is putting ones wrists side by side as if handcuffed. I get it all the time when I ask if I can stay at a hotel, once I got it when I handed a guy my email, another time when I asked a sensitive question. In Xinjiang there is an almost reflexive fear of being arrested.
The fear isn’t unfounded. There have been a growing number of reports, some official Chinese releases, some independent journalism, of Uighur’s being arrested en’masse. A quick list from memory includes: 70 in Kashgar, 14 in Urumqi, 24 in Northern Urumqi, hundreds in Hotan. I would give links but China is blocking a large swath of the internet today.
News of unrest in Xinjiang is only released by the government and it always seems to be a month after the event with no way to verify it. Lately there have been a steady staccato of reports of terrorist plans being thwarted. It seems the need for a perceived threat outstrips the need for perceived stability before the games.
More than a month ago a Xinhua piece had a story with many holes in it that a Uighur girl with ties to Al-qaida somehow smuggled small bottles of gasoline onto a plane from Urumqi to Beijing, midflight she unsuccessfully tried to light the gasoline in hopes of blowing up the plane. The logical holes in the story can only lead to one of two conclusions, either the terrorists are idiots, or the people making the propaganda are idiots.
One attempt to verify official reports by the French News Agency turned up nothing. They went to the block where a supposed full scale urban battle took place between security forces and terrorists in the capital city Urumqi. Many people who live there said they hadn’t heard or seen anything except for one Chinese man in his 50s who lives adjacent to the raid site. He confirmed ‘”They captured a whole bunch of terrorists and there was a big fight,” although he soon admitted learning of the raid only later from state media reports. “The government said so. They would not lie.”
Pin a medal on that man.
Behind these ambiguous stories are real arrests. The numbers are impossible to verify but a friend in Hotan said that hundreds of young men have been arrested in the city lately.The fear that pervades Xinjiang contrasts sharply with eastern China where the police aren’t much of a factor.
This last week in Hotan, a southern city famous for its jade, I ran across a very open man who talked about everything. This was such a breath of fresh air compared with the people who only give me the official line. When I asked if he was afraid of the government he said no, he only fears Allah.
I hope you don’t live in fear of anyone.


















